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Title: Knots - The Prusik Knot Discussion, comments, and tips regarding use for both sailing and climbing. History.
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The Prusik Knot

The Prusik Knot

Scan of a Prusik knotThe Prusik Knot is a variation of the rolling hitch. Some people useit for mast climbing. Since it's not in The Ashley Book of Knots, Itied one around my pen and scanned it.This page used to contain a description written by me, but then MarkAnderson of the vessel Riparia actually did it and wrotea much better description, so with his permission I've replaced myversion with his, slightly edited. I've added a few comments andclarifications of my own at the end.Going Up the Mastby Mark Anderson Climbing the mast is a useful skill, can sometimes be fun, sometimesnecessary to repair something, and sometimes be lifesaving for you and yourboat. There was a thread on going up the mast on rec.boats.cruising in thefall of 1996 that could be referred to, but here's my technique. Remember that going up the mast is inherently dangerous. Knots coulduntie, lines could break, cleats could break, you could fall out of yourBos'n's chair. Then you'd fall and perhaps be killed, paralyzed, breaksomething, or even damage your boat. Try this at your own risk. I'dsuggest securing all knots tied with the ends of the line by seizing orsecurely taping the ends to the standing part to minimize the risk of linecreep and the knots coming loose. I rarely have anyone to hoist me up, so previously I'd used a longtackle. It's getting harder every time, and I don't like the rats nest of150 ft. of line on deck, (particularly envisioning doing this at sea), so Iwas determined to try another way. Being a person who loves simplicity andfrugality, I avoided buying Jumar ascenders, and succeeded, after somefrustrating trials, in using Prusik knots, following a climber friend'sdescription. The first line I used was laid line, and smaller than the halyards.It grabbed just fine, but I couldn't slide it. Too tight. I succeededwith double braid line of the same diameter as the halyard. First, stretch 2 halyards down the front of the mast, and secure theends. You'll be climbing rope halyards, or the rope tails. Take 2 lengthsof line, one about 10 ft., and the other about 6 ft. Take the short oneand tie it to a halyard at about its midpoint with a Prusik knot. [To tiea Prusik, it's basically the same as a Lark's head, (Cow hitch) done twice.Pass a bight around the halyard, then pass the ends thru the bight, aroundthe halyard, and back thru the bight. Lay down smoothly. Seepicture above -- Geoff.] Pass one of thefree ends thru your bos'n's chair eye and tie the ends together with asheet bend so that the Prusik will be at about chin level when you'resitting in the chair.Take the longer line and tie its midpoint on thesame halyard with another Prusik below the first. Tie two half hitches onthe standing part to make a "slipknot" loop in both ends of this line.Adjust so that as you tighten the loops on your feet, (wear durable shoes),and stand, the Prusik will be between navel and chest height. For safety,take a third line tied to your safety harness and rolling hitch this aroundthe second halyard.To ascend, stand in the loops, slide up the bos'n'schair Prusik as far as possible, then sit. Pull your legs up, (the slipknots keep the loops on your feet), and slide the lower Prusik up. Standin the loops, taking your weight off the chair, slide up its Prusik andrepeat until you're up there. In the beginning you just stretch thehalyards and don't go anywhere, but you will shortly. Slide up the safetyharness rolling hitch also as you go. It takes some practice getting thetiming right to take off the tension and do the slide, but it works. Ifound holding onto the halyard with one hand up high while standing in theloops, and using the other hand to slide the chair Prusik at the same timeworked well. Much less tiring than hauling up with a tackle, and no linetangle. Plus, you tend to stay close to the mast.Coming down, reversethe procedure, but I found that pulling on the Prusiks just the right wayinitiated a sustained slide and down I came. Watch out for rope burns.Comments from Geoff: Mark's description needs little more.I've found that it's important to tie off the bottoms of the halyardstightly; this both helps to prevent swinging and gives you somethingto pull against when you are sliding the knots. As Mark implies, ifthe knots don't slide easily, try a different type of line. Somepeople suggest that it's better to make the Prusik knots using a linethat is slightly smaller in diameter than the halyard.People who have done this advise me that it's a very slow process, and thatyou should practice getting back down before you get up very far. Oneperson also implied that you are going to look rather silly whileclimbing the first few feet.Finally, remember that the Prusik knot is not the only one that canfail. Pay close attention to EVERYTHING that isinvolved in supporting your weight, or that might be asked to supportyou should something go wrong. And remember that if you fall, yoursafety line is going to take a force several times your own weight, sooverspecify it, make sure it's new, and retire it if it saves you.A Mountain-Climber's View by Scott Cochrane Scott Cochran, a mountain climber, sent me the following notes onPrusik knots and the general subject of climbing ropes:I was reading your page regarding ascending a mast using prusik knots -very interesting. I am a climber and have never climbed masts (I preferobjects that don't move), however I've done mountaineering and we oftenpractice ascending ropes. I though the following might be worth a try:You are using what climbers call a classic prusik (ie the original prusikknot) but there is also the French prusik and another prusik type knotcalled the Kleimheist. Go to http://www.climbing.ie/knots.html for a gooddiagram on how it is tied. The great thing about the Kleimheist is that itlocks off as well as a classic prusik but can be easily released byloosening the loop at the bottom of the knot.So I was think it might be worth trying a Kleimheist. DO NOT use a frenchprusik because although it releases easily it does so too easily and has atendancy to slip.Another safety tip which you may not have the luxury of on a mast is tyingyourself into the rope that your are climbing. When ascending rope in amountaineering situation we would take the loose rope below and tie a loopin this and clip it to the harness - this way you are not relying on theprusiks entirely and if the prusiks were to fail you would only fall as faras your last knot in the rope. However from what you were saying you tieoff the line as the base of the mast and therefore this would not bepossible.And lastly you had mentioned that some people had advised making the prusikknot out of line smaller than the halyard. This is pretty essentialbecause a prusik knot will not work well at all if the diameter of the knotrope is the same as the diameter of the ascending rope. (We climb ropethat is 9 to 11mm in diameter and use in general 5mm cord for the prusikknot. You can use 6mm cord on 11mm rope but 6mm on 9mm rope becomes aproblem because the size difference is less).So overall I am suggesting that use of the Kleimheist with cord that isabout half the diameter of your ascending rope (no less than 5mm if it ismountaineering type cord you are using) should give you a system that issecure and easy to operate. (Alternatively why not use mechanicalascenders because they are faster and easier - although I highly recommendbeing practised with prusik knots because you never know when you might nothave the ascenders and need to improvise.WARNING AND DISCLAIMER.Attempt this at yourown risk, and only with a proper safety line belayed by someone below.I take no responsibility for accidents or injuries resulting from theuse of this information.

A Little History

Gary Wilson has provided some historical information: The Prusik knot was invented in 1931 by Dr. Karl Prusik and was described in an Austrian mountaineering manual describing it as an ascending knot. He died in 1961 at the age of 65, twice president of his mountaineering club and the pioneer of 70 new mountain climbing routes in Austria. The knot became known as a result of the efforts of "Vertical Bill" Cuddington who started using in the summer of 1952 to explore pits.Back to Geoff Kuenning's home page.This page maintained byGeoff Kuenning.
 

Discussion,

comments,

and

tips

regarding

use

for

both

sailing

and

climbing.

History.

http://fmg-www.cs.ucla.edu/geoff/prusik_knot.html

The Prusik Knot 2008 October

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Discussion, comments, and tips regarding use for both sailing and climbing. History.

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