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| About site: http://www.massey.ac.nz/~sglasgow//nzss/knots.htm |
Title: Knots - New Zealand Speleological Society Covers common caving knots including the Figure 8, Figure 9, Alpine Butterfly, Italian hitch, and Tape knot. Illustrations and common uses.
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Knots
It's Knot Homework.
Introduction
A wide variety of knots are possible to use when caving. Some have advantages
over others. Some can be used to impress fellow cavers of your knowledge
of knots and rigging skills. However, if you are like the majority of cavers
and find it difficult to remember how to tie the multitude of possible
knots, then you can get by with learning only two: the figure-8 and the
tape knot. These two knots can be used to rig tapes, belay points, rebelays,
rope joining and waist belays.
Some knots can be tied on a bight. A bight is simply a loose loop or
doubled-over rope i.e. the knot is tied with a double thickness in the
middle of a rope, rather than with a single thickness at one end.
 Figure-8
This is an extremely useful knot to learn. If you only learn a few knots,
then this is a must. If it is tied on a bight, the loop formed can be used
to tie into belays or rebelays. If it is tied on a single thickness of
rope, the rope end can be followed back through the knot, allowing you
to include a belay point in the loop directly. If another rope end is followed
back through the knot, two ropes can be joined.
 The
figure-8 knot is one if the stronger knots used in caving but can become
difficult to untie after being directly loaded for a period of time c.f.
the butterfly knot. If the knot is loaded between the rope ends, the knot
can deform.The knot can be modified to produce two adjustable loops, ideal
for equalizing loads on a Y-hang (see diagram). Simply form a large loop
when tying the knot on a bight. Feed the end of the loop back through the
first part of the knot , then loop it back over the two loops thus formed
and pull the slack out using the two loops formed. Note that if one loop
is damaged, the other is directly affected also.
 Figure-9
This is probably the strongest knot used in caving in that it weakens
the rope least c.f. other knots. It is tied in similar fashion to a figure-8
on a bight but the bight is carried around an extra half turn before being
passed through the loop. It is used in similar situations as a figure-8
but tends to be less popular since:
it requires more rope to tie
it can jam worse than a figure-8
it is more difficult to follow the knot back when including the tie-in
point directly in the loop.
It is probably a wise idea to use this knot with thinner ropes rather
than the figure-8.
 Alpine
Butterfly
This is an easily tied knot used to form a loop in the middle of a rope.
Although not as strong as a figure-8, it is often used to achieve a Y-hang
(along with a figure-8 on one of the Y ends) or to tie into a rebelay.
It does not tend to jam as much as a figure-8 when loaded directly. It
can also be loaded in all directions.
 Clove
Hitch
An extremely simple knot to tie, the clove hitch is a versatile knot.
It can be loaded from either of the rope ends. It is sometimes useful to
use the clove hitch when wishing to keep a tape sling in a particular position
on a bollard or spike.
 Italian
Hitch
Although not a knot, the italian hitch on a krab is useful for belaying
if no other devices are available. At a pinch, you can abseil with an italian
hitch on a krab but it is rather hard on the rope. The italian hitch can
be reversed by pulling on the other ends of the rope and reversing the
"hitch".
 Double
Fishermans
This knot is used to join ropes. It tends to be bulky and difficult
to undo but this can be eased somewhat by tying a reef knot between the
two ropes first, then using the rope ends to tie the double fishermans
knot (and make and even bulkier knot!).When it is tied normally, the two
ends of the knot pull together closely. If not, reverse the direction of
turning of one side of the knot while it. An alternative knot to use to
join two ropes together is the figure-8.
 Bowline
The bowline is an easy knot of mis-tie. It can be used to loop around
a thread to use as a belay, or to tie around the waist of a person to be
belayed. It has a tendency to work loose so it is advisable to tie a half-hitch
with the rope end.
 The
bowline can be tied on a bight to give two adjustable loops for a Y-hang
(see diagram).
 Tape
Knot
This is the simplest of knots to tie and is the best to use to tie tapes.
The knot is simply an overhand knot in a tape. If the knot is tied on one
end of a tape, the other end can be fed back through the knot to form a
loop of tape. Arrange the knot so the tape lies flat in the knot. If the
knot is tied in a bight, a small loop can be formed on the end of a tape.
If the other end is knotted the same, the tape can be fed through a thread
belay and joined with a krab. The advantage being that this can be derigged
without the knots having to be undone in a cave.
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Covers | common | caving | knots | including | the | Figure | 8, | Figure | 9, | Alpine | Butterfly, | Italian | hitch, | and | Tape | knot. | | Illustrations | and | common | uses. |
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http://www.massey.ac.nz/~sglasgow//nzss/knots.htm
New Zealand Speleological Society 2008 July
dvd rental
dvd
Covers common caving knots including the Figure 8, Figure 9, Alpine Butterfly, Italian hitch, and Tape knot. Illustrations and common uses.
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