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Title: Knots - Climerware Analysis of the strength loss caused by using a girth hitch. Climbing variations of the girth hitch, the dogvine, the mule knot, and the Figure-8. How to tie a bowline and clove hitch one-handed.
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Girth Hitch Mon Sep 11    And what about that Girth Hitch?Knots are pure magic. I mean, you take this length of cord, twirl itinto an esoteric shape and amazing things happen. A knot will keepyou in place, let you descend slowly, and even untie itself only when needed.Magic, pure and simple. Sometimes, though, that magic can bite.Let's take a simple situation which we've all encountered, namely, joiningtwo runners. Everybody uses a girth hitch, right? Well, maybe you shouldreconsider that. The girth hitch can reduce the strength of your runnercombination to 66% of the strength of a runner/biner/runner combination.Toss in a spectra/nylon runner combination and you're potentiallyworking with a setup that will fail at 10kN or less. Use THAT inan anchor and it could fail with the 6kN shock force generated by aleader fall onto a soft catch rope. *SNAP*.For all their versatility and magic, knots do something bad--they bendthe rope. If you doubt this is bad, take a moment to think of a knife as a device that causes an unusually SHARP bend. The sharper the bend,the weaker the rope. So any knot will weaken that lifeline of yours.PANIC? ... well, maybe not. As a standard test of runner strength,climbing gear manufacturers will pull-test runners using 10mm steel pins at either endto simulate the force applied by carabiners in a climbing situation. Soone obvious solution is to slap a biner between the two runners, makingsure that it can't get cross-loaded (separate problem, you figure it out).But if you don't have that biner, you will have to use...a knot.This is where the fun begins. What knot will join two runners, compromise their strength as little as possible, AND be easy to untie?A puzzle, a veritable mystery...and on it goes. Here's the tale ofmy adventures in KnotLand as hosted by the Knot Master himself, Mr. ChrisHarmston of Black Diamond, to whom I owe a tremendous debt of gratitudefor putting up with my curiousity.Once upon a time, long, long ago, there was a knot called...I. The Girth Hitch (spectra/spectra)II. The Girth Hitch (spectra/nylon)III. The Linked Girth HitchIV. Black Diamond Girth Hitch DataV. The Climer Sling HitchConfused? Well, you should probably use biners to link slings in a high load situation. Otherwise, a girth hitch should be just fine if thegirthed runners are strong enough. Consider that 66% of 27kN is 17.8kN.An anchor that breaks at 17.8kN will support slingshot loads of10.7kN. Check your rope and you'll find that it probably limitsshock load to 10kN or less.The End--Karl |
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Analysis | of | the | strength | loss | caused | by | using | a | girth | hitch. | | Climbing | variations | of | the | girth | hitch, | the | dogvine, | the | mule | knot, | and | the | Figure-8. | | How | to | tie | a | bowline | and | clove | hitch | one-handed. |
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Analysis of the strength loss caused by using a girth hitch. Climbing variations of the girth hitch, the dogvine, the mule knot, and the Figure-8. How to tie a bowline and clove hitch one-handed.
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