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Title: Knots - 5.10 Climbing Club: Double Butterfly Explanation, illustrations, and instructions.
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5.10 Climbing Club - Butterfly Knot
Double-butterfly Knot
Double-butterfly Knot (and variations thereof)
by Ron Kilber rpknet@aztec.asu.edu
The Double-butterfly Knot is, in my humble opinion, the best mid-line knot for rigging equalized anchors. I've been researching for years now, and no where have I found evidence of the existence or use of this knot, and until I find such, I'm laying claim to be the inventor. As one friend of mine put it, "You mean after 450,000 years of human habitation on earth, it's actually possible that not all knot variations have been invented yet?"
Well, the Double-butterfly Knot is proof-positive. Isn't it?
In 1994, I presented the Double-butterfly Knot to Jim Bridwell when we met at Yosemite National Park. Naturally, he assumed I was going to show him a knot that he already knew, but he had never heard of it before, and was actually surprised that such a knot was possible.
Pictured below is the Double-butterfly Knot, configured to equalize two anchors using only the climbing rope. Notice the optional clove-hitch rigging!
CAUTION! The Double-butterfly Knot is a mid-line knot, and accordingly should never be used as an end-line knot, unless, of course, precaution is taken to secure the unused end!
For directions on how to tie this knot, click on Tying The Double- and Triple-butterfly Knot!
Of course, the Double-butterfly knot is a variation of the Single Butterfly knot, well-know and well-used for several important reasons:
1. The Butterfly Knot is stronger than all other mid-line knots (the turn radius of the rope bend is larger).
2. The Butterfly Knot is easier to untie than all mid-line knots, even when shock-loaded.
3. The Butterfly Knot is more secure than, for example, the Clove Hitch or the "Bowline on a bite", which can reverse itself (very confusing).
4. The Butterfly Knot provides for multi-directional pull.
5. The Butterfly Knot is, because of its symmetry, very easy to inspect -- an important safety consideration!
6. Finally, when in a bind, the Butterfly Knot is possible to tie with one hand (and not too difficult to master with a little practice). This skill could prove life-saving in an emergency situation.
There are no disadvantages to the Butterfly Knot, except that some climbers have argued it may be somewhat complicated to construct. In my humble opinion, again, I'd say that anyone who can't master the Butterfly Knot probably doesn't have much business climbing (and endangering others).
Aside from all of these important reasons, there's one more factor about the Butterfly Knot that proves all-important for rigging and climbing. The knot is easily constructed to form the Double-butterfly Knot -- as I've described above!
While the French Bowline and the "Bowline on a bite" are considered by many climbers as good knots for self-equalizing situations, the Double-butterfly Knot is much better for two reasons. For one, it's much easier to tie. And for two, it has superior equalizing characteristics. Neither the French Bowline nor the "Bowline on a bite" have both of these all-important safety features. Self-equalizing is an especially important factor, inasmuch as in the absence of such, it's entirely possible to blow all of your anchors in rapid-fire succession.
There's more! The Triple-butterfly Knot can be constructed as effortlessly as the Double-butterfly. Pictured below is the Triple-butterfly Knot, which is configured to equalize three anchors using only the climbing rope. Notice the optional clove-hitch rigging!
CAUTION! The Triple-butterfly Knot is a mid-line knot, and accordingly should never be used as an end-line knot, unless, of course, precaution is taken to secure the unused end!
For directions on how to tie this knot, click on Tying The Double- and Triple-butterfly Knot!
If, by now, you are wondering, is there a Quadruple-butterfly Knot? Absolutely! In fact, it appears there are no limitations for the number of loops that can be constructed using this technique for variations of the Butterfly Knot. Just for fun, I've gone as hign as six loops! And it worked extrememly well. Try that with "French or Double Bowline" knots!
In summary, the multiple-loop Butterfly Knot may well be the only practical mid-line knot for self-equalized rigging when there are more than two anchors.
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Explanation, | illustrations, | and | instructions. |
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